Starter Rack for Trad (Traditional) Rock Climbing: General Rules
There is an enormous variety and choice when it comes to choosing rock climbing equipment. It can be overwhelming when you first start rock climbing. Therefore, this guide is meant to give you a clear idea of the most important things to include in your first trad climbing rack. I have made a list with some recommendations of makes and models at the end of this document. DO NOT buy second-hand rock climbing safety equipment, as you do not know its history, whether it has been properly looked after, or if it has taken any large falls. There are a few key rules to follow when choosing rock climbing equipment that will help you navigate the extensive options:
Rule 1:
All rock climbing equipment that you purchase should be rigorously tested to international standards and carry the UIAA and CE marks to show this. Do not buy anything that does not carry that mark.
Rule 2:
Is it appropriate for the type of rock climbing you will be doing? Some rock climbing equipment is designed with a very specific style or purpose in mind, while some is more general. Make sure you check the manufacturer’s recommendations, and for your first trad climbing rack, you want to choose equipment that is more general-purpose. If you make the right choices now, you will future-proof your rack and avoid buying new equipment as you advance in your rock climbing journey.
Rule 3:
Go and try the rock climbing equipment on in your local shop. This is especially true for rock climbing shoes, but for helmets and harnesses, it is also very important to check the correct size from a safety perspective. An ill-fitting harness or helmet is a serious safety issue. Your local rock climbing shop is a safe and trusted place to buy equipment, and you can often get good recommendations from staff.
Harness
You will be wearing your harness for long periods during rock climbing, so you will need a harness that is comfortable for all-day use and has good padding to support you when hanging on the rope during a fall, abseil, or lowering situation. Your rock climbing harness must have both a waist belt and leg loops, which should be easily adjustable. The harness must fit comfortably and tightly above the hip bones. Make sure there’s room for extra layers on cold days. A good rock climbing harness will have six gear loops and must have a rated belay loop on the front. Try on the harness in a shop before purchasing, as manufacturer sizes can vary.
Helmet
No one should be rock climbing without a helmet. Modern rock climbing helmets are so lightweight and comfortable that there’s no excuse not to wear one. Always try on the helmet before buying to ensure it fits comfortably on your head. A well-fitted helmet should sit over your forehead and provide protection for the sides and back of your head. It should not move when you shake or nod your head. Ensure enough adjustment to fit a thin hat under the helmet on a cold day.
Rock Shoes
When rock climbing, having good footwork is key to success. You can take the weight off your arms and make upward progress much easier. Your leg muscles are much larger than your arm muscles, so getting weight onto your feet is crucial. Rock climbing shoes can cause pain if you get the wrong size, so it is essential to try them on in-store for the best fit, as manufacturer sizes vary. Your first pair of rock climbing shoes should be comfortable, with a snug but not tight fit. Avoid excessive space in the toes, but ensure they aren’t crushed. A harder rubber sole is recommended for beginners, as softer rubber wears down quickly.
Chalk & Chalk Bag
As you progress to harder grades in rock climbing, chalk may give you extra confidence and improve grip on smaller holds. Chalk balls are a good option to avoid waste and mess. The chalk bag should sit comfortably in the middle of your back, allowing access with both hands.
Ropes
Understanding ropes is crucial in rock climbing, and you can either climb with a single rope or double ropes.
Single Rope Climbing: This is ideal for routes that go straight up, where protection is placed in a straight line from the bottom to the top.
Double Rope Climbing: Double ropes are used for routes where protection weaves around obstacles, not in a straight vertical line.
When buying rock climbing ropes, you’ll see single ropes, triple-rated ropes, and half or twin ropes. Half or twin ropes must be used in pairs, while single and triple-rated ropes can be used alone or together, offering more flexibility.
The main difference is that a half rope or twin rope CANNOT be used on its own and must only be used as part of a pair. Single and triple rated ropes can be used alone or in a pair so are more flexible. Ropes come in many lengths and diameters. The length of rope you need will depend on what you are doing, but for your first ropes, a 60m length would be perfect and cover you for almost every situation you would come across. The diameter of a rope will determine not only the weight of the rope but also how much friction it creates in belay devices and how manageable it is when tying knots etc. In general, for your first trad ropes I would recommend something around 9mm in diameter. Always make sure that you are buying dynamic ropes to climb on which will stretch to absorb forces.
For your first rock climbing ropes, a pair of 60m, 9mm diameter, triple-rated ropes is ideal, giving you flexibility for various situations.
Static Rope
Static or semi-static rope is not for climbing on and should not be used in any situation where a climber might fall onto the rope. It is for setting up anchors or abseiling. I recommend a 30m length of static rope for setting up top ropes or abseils during rock climbing.
Belay Plate
With many belay plate options available, it’s important to future-proof your rack by choosing one that accommodates two ropes and can be used in ‘guide mode’ for multi-pitch rock climbing. Ensure it’s compatible with your rope diameter before purchasing.
Screwgate/Locking Carabiners
These are essential for building anchors, belaying, and abseiling in rock climbing. I recommend starting with five screwgate carabiners: two D-shaped and three pear-shaped. These will form the basis of your rock climbing rack.
Snaplink Carabiners
Snaplink carabiners, which do not lock, are used to build belays and store equipment on your harness while rock climbing. I recommend having at least 10 on your starter rack.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws are used to attach your protection to the rope during rock climbing. You should have a variety of sizes—five short quickdraws, five long quickdraws, and two extendable ones—to avoid rope drag as you traverse or climb overhangs.
Slings
Slings are versatile and can be used to build anchors, wrap around boulders or spikes, and assist with abseiling in rock climbing. Four slings should be enough for your starter rack: one 240cm sling, two medium (180cm and 160cm), and one short (80cm) sling.
Nuts
Nuts are essential protection for trad rock climbing. A standard set of nuts (sizes 1–10/11) will be perfect for your starter rack, stored on three snaplink carabiners (small, medium, and large).
Hexes
Hexes are invaluable for easier rock climbing routes. For your first rack, three hexes (small, medium, and large) will suffice. As you progress to harder climbs, you may replace these with cams.
Cams (Friends)
Cams, or friends, are spring-loaded pieces of rock climbing protection. For your first rack, I recommend three sizes (1, 2, and 3). Store each cam on its own snaplink carabiner for easy access.
Nut Key
A nut key helps remove protection from the rock and is an essential tool in rock climbing. Choose one with a cord attachment to avoid dropping it while climbing.
Prusik Loop
A prusik loop is a 4-6mm cord tied in a loop with a double fisherman’s knot. It’s used in rock climbing for safety and can also be useful for emergencies. A good tip is to use prusik cord to tie your chalk bag to your waist for extra functionality.
SUMMARY LIST AND RECOMMENDATIONS
EQUIPMENT ITEM | RECOMMENDATION |
Harness | Petzl Aquila - LINK |
Helmet | Petzl Sirocco - LINK |
Rock Shoes | Scarpa Reflex V - LINK |
Chalk and Chalk Bag | |
Ropes | |
Belay Plate | Petzl Reverso - LINK |
Screwgate Carabiners | |
Snaplink Carabiners | Petzl Djinn - LINK |
Quickdraws | |
Slings | |
Nuts | Sizes 1 - 10/11 - LINK |
Hexes | Sizes 2, 3 and 4 - LINK |
Cams/Friends | Sizes 1, 2 and 3 - LINK |
Nut Key | Wild Country Pro Key - LINK |
Prusik Loop | 4 - 6mm cord - LINK |
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