Learn to Lead
Aviemore, Cairngorm National Park
2 Days
£390 pp
Take your winter climbing to the next level with my ‘Learn to Lead’ course. My two-day programme will equip you with the skills and knowledge to confidently and safely lead your first winter climb. From selecting appropriate routes and managing variable winter conditions to evaluating protection and successfully planning your ascent, I’ll cover it all. My course not only covers the technical and physical aspects of leading winter climbs, but also focuses on the mental preparation needed to achieve your goals.
Take your winter climbing to the next level with my ‘Learn to Lead’ course. My two-day programme will equip you with the skills and knowledge to confidently and safely lead your first winter climb. From selecting appropriate routes and managing variable winter conditions to evaluating protection and successfully planning your ascent, I’ll cover it all. My course not only covers the technical and physical aspects of leading winter climbs, but also focuses on the mental preparation needed to achieve your goals.
This course is based in Aviemore, at the heart of the Cairngorm National Park, surrounded by the rugged beauty of Scotland's Highlands. Aviemore is well-connected by road, rail, and air, and offers a wide range of accommodation options to suit all budgets. While the village will be our base, we’ll explore various Highland locations to make the most of the weather and conditions, ensuring you have the best experience possible.
NB: This itinerary is a sample of what we could do during the course. This is subject to change due to weather, conditions and group fitness. I will always make sure that you get the most out of your course no matter what the weather and conditions are.
Day 1 - Introduction to Leading on Snow, Ice and Mixed Terrain
We’ll kick off our course with an exciting introduction to winter climbing techniques and protecting routes in winter conditions. This day will provide the perfect opportunity to practise your snow anchor and rock protection skills while ascending a climbs. You’ll take the lead on the pitches, with me by your side to offer guidance and support, ensuring you build confidence in your leading abilities.
Throughout the day, we’ll focus on winter-specific protection techniques, including the placement of ice screws, pitons, bulldogs, and peckers as well as snow anchors. Learning how to assess the quality of protection in varied terrain is essential for safe leading, and you’ll gain hands-on experience applying these techniques as you climb.
A key component of our training will be the organisation of your gear to enhance time efficiency on the route. We’ll cover how to systematically arrange your equipment, ensuring that everything is easily accessible when you need it.
Efficient gear management is crucial in winter conditions, as it allows you to react swiftly and safely in changing environments. We’ll also discuss effective rope management techniques, helping you maintain a streamlined approach to leading in winter walking scenarios.
In addition, we’ll learn how to safely approach a climb on the lower slopes, including assessing terrain and conditions, understanding how to navigate potential hazards, and preparing yourself mentally for the challenges ahead. This foundational knowledge is vital for ensuring your safety as you progress to more technical climbing.
Additionally, we’ll discuss the mountain environment, focusing on safety and avalanche awareness, which are crucial elements for any winter skills experience.
We’ll also cover essential navigation and planning skills to provide you with a comprehensive understanding of your day, complementing your climbing techniques.
By the end of Day 1, you’ll have a solid foundation in leading techniques, organisation, gear management, and winter-specific protection, setting you up for success as you continue your journey in winter climbing and enhancing your winter skills.
Day 2 - Advanced Leading Techniques and Route Planning
On Day 2, we’ll focus on enhancing your movement skills and building anchors as you prepare to lead more technical climbs. This day will challenge you to make decisions on route choice and develop strategies for planning your lead effectively.
A significant focus will be placed on avalanche assessment. You’ll learn how to identify avalanche-prone areas, interpret snowpack conditions, and assess potential risks. This knowledge is essential for making informed decisions as you plan your routes and select climbs.
We’ll also discuss safe exiting techniques at the top of climbs, covering how to evaluate your surroundings, establish safe anchors, and navigate back down effectively. Understanding the best practices for descending safely after a climb is critical for maintaining safety and ensuring a successful outing.
Moreover, we will address how to escape a climb in an emergency. This includes strategies for quickly assessing the situation, executing an effective retreat, and communicating with your climbing partner. You’ll learn various techniques for safely descending from an ascent, ensuring that you can act decisively if unexpected challenges arise.
Throughout the day, we’ll maintain a holistic approach, considering the day's conditions and how to make informed decisions in the mountain environment. You’ll learn how to assess your surroundings and adapt your plans as necessary, ensuring that you’re prepared for any challenges that may arise.
By the end of Day 2, you’ll feel more confident in your leading skills and equipped to tackle a variety of winter climbing scenarios, all while enhancing your winter skills and knowledge on safely approaching and descending winter climbs.
This winter climbing course is ideal for those who already have experience using crampons and an ice axe in the UK’s winter mountains or similar environments, such as the Alps. Previous experience of rock climbing using trad gear will also be useful to make the most out of the course.
Good general fitness will always make the course more enjoyable and rewarding. If you’d like advice on how to prepare, please don’t hesitate to get in touch—I’ve got lots of simple and effective ways to prepare physically for winter climbing.
Feel free to get in touch to discuss your experience and goals—I’m always happy to help guide you to the right course!
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Making sound decisions in winter climbing environments
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Selecting and using essential winter climbing equipment
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Tying critical knots for winter climbing safety
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Practising safe lead belaying techniques in winter conditions
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Mastering top-rope belaying methods for winter climbing
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Using trad gear effectively in winter climbing
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Setting up and securing snow anchors for winter climbs
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Using ice protection systems for winter climbing safety
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Choosing and setting up secure anchors in winter conditions
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Setting up in-reach and out-of-reach anchors for winter climbs
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Mastering lead climbing fundamentals in winter
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Moving efficiently across snow, ice, and mixed terrain
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Reading routes and planning strategies for winter climbing
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Building a solid foundation in winter climbing training
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Developing avalanche awareness for winter climbing safety
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Mastering macro and micro navigation in winter environments
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Planning and preparing for winter mountain days
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Interpreting weather and avalanche forecasts for winter climbing
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Assessing mountain conditions on the ground during winter climbs
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Understanding and practising emergency procedures in winter climbing
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Exploring the history and ethics of winter climbing in the UK
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Included:
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Exceptional instruction and coaching
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Access to Alex’s knowledge and advice before and after the course
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Local transport to and from your accommodation in Aviemore
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Ropes and climbing hardware
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Helmet and harness
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Guidebooks
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Maps and compass
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Emergency equipment
Not Included:
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Personal clothing
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B2/B3 Boots, C2/C2 Crampons and Technical Axes (Can be hired locally)
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Accommodation
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Food and snacks
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Transport to Aviemore before and after the course
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