INTRO TO TRAD (TRADITIONAL) ROCK CLIMBING TIPS AND SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
OVERVIEW OF ONLINE COURSE
You can purchase the online Trad Rock Climbing course by contacting Alex HERE
This course has been designed for those getting started with traditional (trad) rock climbing. With so much information, technical skills, and knowledge available, it can be completely overwhelming to make clear decisions about how to approach rock climbing safely and successfully. Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous sport, and therefore, it is very important to get things right the first time to avoid serious injury or worse.
This course will give you clear knowledge and simple techniques that will work in all situations you come across whilst undertaking your first trad rock climbs. The idea is to provide clear and concise instruction that allows you to safely succeed. This resource will provide reference material to accompany the course, and both this document and the online course can be returned to at any time to clarify your rock climbing knowledge.
This course is not meant to replace expert instruction from highly qualified professionals, but rather to serve as reference material. Rock climbing is a dangerous sport, and it is important that you approach it with caution. If you are unsure, then you should not undertake the activity until you seek expert advice. Alex Moran Mountaineering takes no responsibility for accidents or injuries sustained whilst repeating the skills and techniques described in this course.
TERMINOLOGY
Climbing terminology can be like learning a new language, therefore, I have prepared a list of the basic terms that you will need to get started and understand the ‘lingo’ as you begin your rock climbing journey. The specific vocabulary for all of the equipment is described in the Equipment section of the course.
SINGLE PITCH: A rock climb that is only one rope length long (up to 60m) and no more. These are the rock climbs we focus on in this course.
MULTI PITCH: A rock climb that is more than one rope length and needs to be climbed in two or more sections to reach the top.
BELAY: The action of feeding the rope through a friction device to keep your partner safe as they rock climb.
TOP ROPE: When the rope is above the climber as they ascend the rock. This is the safest style of single pitch rock climbing as the climber will not fall far.
LEAD CLIMB: Where a climber ascends the rock, trailing the rope behind them and placing protection as they go up. This is riskier as the climber has the potential to fall further.
JUG: A large hold over which you can fit your entire hand. Great for resting during a rock climb!
CRIMP: A small hold for the tips of your fingers. As you tackle harder rock climbing grades, you will come across more of these!
JAM: Where you use various parts of your hands, feet, or body to ‘jam’ in a crack to provide a hold to progress upwards. An acquired taste!
ABSEIL: Descending the cliff using the rope and your belay device to provide friction.
LOWER: Where the belayer controls the descent of the climber as they come down the cliff.
DEAD ROPE: The rope coming out of the bottom of the belay plate which should never be let go of while belaying.
TOP ROPING
This is the best place to start your rock climbing outside. It is safer and more controlled than lead climbing, as long as you pay attention to setting up your anchor carefully while protecting the rock and the rope at the top of the cliff. Top roping will allow you to become familiar with gear placements and moving on rock.
Safety considerations:
Only suitable for cliffs where you can easily access the top by walking.
Be very aware of the edge of the cliff when setting up your top rope. Treat the edge of the cliff like a wild animal – keep it in the corner of your eye.
Make sure you have a very solid anchor with three pieces of protection as a minimum at the top of the cliff.
Equalise your anchor in the direction of pull.
Be very aware that the rope does not run over rock on its way down; the friction will damage both the rope and the rock.
Use rope protectors for the anchor.
Setting Up Rock Climbing Anchors – key rules:
I - Independent - Each piece of gear should be independent of the other.
D - Directional - The anchor should pull in the direction of the expected force.
E - Equalised - Each piece of protection should take an equal force.
A - Angle - The angle between each piece of protection should be less than 90 degrees.
S - Safety - Check that all screwgates are done up and the system is neat.
LEAD CLIMBING
Lead climbing is the natural progression for climbers once they become confident placing protection, using rope systems, and anchor setups for top roping. Lead climbing is inherently more dangerous than top roping. The leader is trailing the rope behind them, placing protection as they ascend. If they fall, they will fall to their last piece of protection and then the same distance again afterwards. For example, if they fall from 1 metre above their last piece of protection, they will fall two metres in total. It is important to be well practised in placing strong protection before you take on your first lead rock climb.
Safety considerations:
Start by practising leading using a top rope to get used to placing gear.
Choose a route well below the grade you can rock climb on top rope. This way, you will have time to place protection in a relaxed and rested position.
Choose routes you have climbed before for your first leads, so you know what to expect and can make a clear plan.
Keep a hand on the rock while testing protection, so it doesn’t knock you off balance if it comes out.
Do not back clip your quickdraws.
Be very aware of the edge of the cliff when setting up your top rope. Treat the edge like a wild animal – keep it in your sight.
Ensure a solid anchor with at least three pieces of protection at the top of the cliff.
Equalise your anchor in the direction of pull.
Don’t shout “Safe” until you are fully secured into the top anchor.
Sit at the edge of the cliff to belay, where you can see your partner climbing up.
Use clear rock climbing calls, outlined below, to communicate with your partner from the top of the cliff.
Placing Rock Climbing Protection – key rules:
1 - The rock should be solid, sound, and able to take the force.
2 - Contact of metal to rock should be maximised.
3 - The protection should be angled with the direction of a potential fall in mind.
CLIMBING CALLS
Climbing calls are designed to be easily heard and understood over long distances. Even if you can’t hear the words, you can distinguish the syllables. This is why it is so important to have a clear system that all rock climbers in your party understand. The calls below are standard for the whole lead climbing system. Each call has a “translation” beside it. In time it is best to replace climbing calls with silent climbing, using the rope as an umbilical chord of communication between climbers and tugs by the leader can be used to replace the calls.
"ON BELAY": “I have attached you to the belay plate and I am ready to belay you.
”SAFE: “I have built an anchor at the top of the cliff, and you can take me off belay.
”OFF BELAY: “I have taken you off belay, and you can now pull in the ropes.
”THAT’S ME: “The ropes have come tight to me, and you can now put me on belay.
”CLIMB WHEN READY: “You are now on belay, and you can start to rock climb.
”CLIMBING: “I am starting to rock climb now.”
DESCENDING THE CLIFF
After rock climbing, you may need to use the rope to descend the cliff, and there are two main ways you can do this: abseiling and lowering. Each method has its merits and uses, which I outline in the course.
LOWERING: Lowering is the best way to descend when top roping. The climber reaches the anchor point, leans back, and the belayer lowers them to the ground.
Safety considerations:
You must have a strong, equalised anchor with three or more pieces of protection at the top of the cliff.
Ensure the rope is not running over the rock when lowering, as this could damage both the rope and the rock.
The belayer should have both hands on the ‘dead’ rope at the bottom of the belay plate to control the descent.
The person being lowered should keep straight legs with feet wide apart as they walk down.
ABSEILING: This is where the climber uses the rope and their belay plate to descend the cliff. This should be done with the utmost caution, and the entire system should be checked several times before committing to the abseil.
Safety considerations:
You must have a strong, equalised anchor with three or more pieces of protection at the top of the cliff.
Ensure your rope is long enough to reach the bottom of the cliff.
You must tie knots at the ends of any rope used for abseiling to ensure you don’t go off the end.
You must use a prusik loop to back up your belay device and clip the prusik into your belay loop of the harness.
Always use screwgate carabiners to attach your prusik and belay plate. Triple check your screwgates are closed before you set off.
Use a short sling to attach the belay plate to your harness.
Check everything at least three times to be sure each element is attached properly and all safety precautions are taken.
The person being lowered should keep straight legs with feet wide apart as they walk down.
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